Nina Simone first recorded Black Is The Color Of My True Love’s Hair back in 1959. It is said that the color black signified the mystery of her true love. For many of us, especially those born not too many years after 1959 (myself included), the mystery is where did my original hair color go - and how do I cover up all this gray? Sounds easy enough as there are hundreds of over-the-counter hair coloring products on the market, as well as hair care professionals offering the service in salons. However, for some of us, a sensitivity to hair dye ingredients can be a huge obstacle.
When I was younger, the biggest problem when I colored my hair was that no matter the color, it would have a reddish tint. I have less of an issue with that today, but more of a problem with my scalp turning red and itchy from irritation following the application of hair dye. After discussing the contact dermatitis with my clinician, he recommended trying a hair dye free of paraphenylenediamine, also known as PPD.
PPD has been used in hair dyes since the late 1880’s. It is the PPD which makes the dye permanent. You can shampoo and condition your hair and the color remains. PPD is colorless and odorless. Hair dyes that contain it often come packaged with two bottles: one with the PPD and the other with a developer or oxidizer that activates it. Darker shades of hair dye will typically contain higher concentrations of PPD than lighter shades.
While PPD is great for making color last, for many it is not so great for our skin. The telltale signs of allergic contact dermatitis may present soon after application of the dye. These include itchy, red skin, blisters, bumps, swelling, and tenderness, which starts on the scalp and for some can extend past the hairline down onto the face. Shares Mayo Clinic dermatologist James A. Yiannias M.D., “PPD is by far the most common [hair dye ingredient allergen] and there are many modified versions of PPD that can also make people break out, especially if they’re allergic to PPD.”
In fact, reactions are so common, PPD was declared the Contact Allergen of the Year for 2006 by the American Contact Dermatitis Society (ACDS). Products that contain PPD are labeled with a warning, suggesting consumers try a self-patch test prior to use. Those with severe sensitivity may wish to discuss with their clinician whether or not to have skin patch testing performed by a dermatologist or allergist.
For those who have demonstrated a positive skin test after exposure to the PPD, is hair dye off the table? Not necessarily.
SkinSAFE offers a Dye Free Wellness Marker, which identifies products free from PPD, as well as other colorants and dyes that can cause skin sensitivities. While a permanent PPD-free hair color can be challenging to locate, there are several demi-permanent products awarded the Dye Free Wellness Marker.
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